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Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Walnut

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Walnut, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything wrong, but retracted both awning just to be safe. The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Walnut. I'm presuming the fixing will involve changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We've obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major repairs, and so on, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride before we realized the axle was in trouble. We haven't had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, and so on, is great. The rear bracket setting up is great, yet the front one is fractured at the base and completely broken through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Walnut).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it needs to be totally replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as advice as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also obtain us via the summer - without having to place in a brand new awning! We remain in a really severe bind due to the fact that we have actually a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I would certainly rather find a quick and reliable service. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the fourth one, I require to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to come off initially prior to the final steps of this article (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Below's an information of exactly how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step until the awning got on the ground yet I saw this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went in advance and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting bracket on the. Removing the placing brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Below's a look at the round network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply yank it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite swiftly.

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! Once I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just recognize it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground little bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply glides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were removed I can glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roofing system decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples stifling. I pried them out as ideal I could. The following thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I simply pried up the plastic insert and pulled out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the corner molding need to be gotten rid of.

Then I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that point I changed from a scraper to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the same means, and curved it laterally just enough so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which suggests I'll end eliminating those edge trim items all the way down besides. However we'll get to that later. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down but adhesive now) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Walnut, CA

I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scraped up a few of the broken bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Now I can see the steel framing under. After that the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the items with each other. I don't understand how specifically they managed to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roofing was losing strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off right before the first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

It's simply popping with the staples. The edge of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Very same offer once again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down but adhesive now) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Walnut. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the busted bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to pull up cleanly intact without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framework below. But after that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't recognize how precisely they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roof covering was shedding stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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