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Santa Ana Camping Repair Near Me

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Repair Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing handles tightened up down.) I really did not see anything wrong, yet pulled back both awning just to be risk-free. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rain gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Santa Ana Camping Repair Near Me. I'm assuming the repair service will require replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant repairs, etc, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we recognized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is fine. The back bracket assembly is fine, but the front one is split at the bottom and completely appeared on top, to ensure that the leading assistance arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio reasonable? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey steel - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as guidance as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps also get us via the summer season - without having to put in a brand name new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I would certainly instead locate a fast and efficient remedy. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off initially prior to the final steps of this article (exposing the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Right here's a detail of just how the awning mounting brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't really need to do this action till the awning got on the ground however I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing like me, after that you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to cut completion with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather promptly.

Once the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were removed I might move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can remove the old roof covering decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply pried up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. The roofing decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift have to be lifted. To raise that, the corner molding need to be eliminated.

Then I might turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the exact same means, and bent it sideways simply enough so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The edge of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue at this point) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding back the roof covering plywood! It is entirely glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing started to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how precisely they took care of to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roof ply are signed up with with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roofing was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

It's simply standing out via the staples. Lastly the side of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Very same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling but adhesive now) and after that I could pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Santa Ana Camping Repair Near Me. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners in any way holding down the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scratched up several of the damaged little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to bring up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I might see the steel framework under. But after that the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't understand how specifically they took care of to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are joined together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roof covering was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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