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Camper Awning Replacement Santa Ana

Published Jun 09, 25
11 min read

Camper Services Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Awning Replacement Santa Ana. I'm assuming the repair work will entail replacing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repairs, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The back bracket setting up is great, but the front one is broken at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer fastens to the camper.

Also the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Camper Awning Replacement Santa Ana).

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The Motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like advice as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather discover a quick and effective solution. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roofing. Yet in order to remove the 4th one, I require to eliminate the RV awning too.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof covering decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise notice how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final steps of this article (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Right here's an information of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't really need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground but I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing bracket on the. Removing the installing brace of the awning.

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To replace the roof, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. Here's an appearance at the circular channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof covering like me, then you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may need to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is covered under. After that just pull it out! As soon as the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty quickly.

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire point unexpectedly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just know it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was attached under it. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground little bit by little by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning was on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just moves straight off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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When the two set screws were removed I can move the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

I pried them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rusty staples quieting. I tore them out as best I could. The following point holding back the rv fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply tore up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass change. To lift that, the corner molding need to be gotten rid of.

After that I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened the various other corner trim in the very same method, and curved it sideways simply sufficient so that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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The edge of the roof decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue now) and after that I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started very carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners in any way holding down the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scratched up a few of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The entire point began to bring up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framing beneath. Then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the pieces with each other. I don't understand just how precisely they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roof covering was losing strength and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off right before the very first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which implies I'll end removing those corner trim items right down after all. We'll get to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

It's simply popping through the staples. The edge of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same offer once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this point) and then I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Awning Replacement Santa Ana. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

When I scratched up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing began to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not recognize just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are signed up with together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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