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Camper Awning Repair Irvine

Published Jun 11, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing handles tightened down.) I didn't see anything awry, however pulled back both awning just to be risk-free. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided right into has retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Awning Repair Irvine. I'm thinking the repair work will require replacing that whole size of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were drawn out

We've got busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant fixings, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we recognized the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, yet the front one is split near the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, to make sure that the leading assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper. We are in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Camper Awning Repair Irvine).

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The RV is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as advice as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also obtain us with the summertime - without having to put in a brand brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I would certainly rather locate a quick and efficient service. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Renovation Series!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roof trim molding from three sides of the roofing system. However in order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to remove the recreational vehicle awning too.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pushing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally notice exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to come off first prior to the final actions of this blog post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Here's a detail of exactly how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not really have to do this action till the awning got on the ground but I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical edge at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting bracket on the right. Eliminating the placing brace of the awning. When the mounting brackets are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally much like a routine piece of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding other than that at the bottom side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing system like me, after that you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You might have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Simply tug it out!

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Just recognize it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was secured under it. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just moves right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were removed I might slide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roof covering decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding have to be gotten rid of.

After that I could turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scraper to a stiff 6 wide putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. Then I loosened up the other corner trim in the same method, and bent it sidewards simply enough to ensure that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those corner trim pieces completely down nevertheless. However we'll reach that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's just popping through the staples. Finally the edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge. Same deal once more. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down but glue at this factor) and then I might tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding back the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scraped up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to pull up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I can see the steel framework beneath. But after that the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the pieces with each other. I do not understand just how specifically they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are signed up with together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roof covering was shedding toughness and rigidity as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those edge trim items right down besides. We'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The edge of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much quieting yet glue now) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Awning Repair Irvine. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. I started very carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding back the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to pull up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I can see the steel framework underneath. After that the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the items together. I do not know how exactly they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly realized the roofing system was losing strength and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off just before the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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