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Foothill Ranch Camper Trailer Repair Near Me

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Repair Foothill Ranch, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Foothill Ranch Camper Trailer Repair Near Me. I'm assuming the repair work will entail replacing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We've obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major fixings, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we recognized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out because it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is great. The rear bracket assembly is fine, yet the front one is broken at the bottom and completely broken through at the top, so that the leading support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Even the real support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Foothill Ranch Camper Trailer Repair Near Me).

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The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like suggestions as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also get us with the summertime - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd instead locate a quick and reliable service. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roof trim molding from three sides of the roofing. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground.

Camper Awning Repair Foothill Ranch, CA

You'll also notice how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final steps of this article (exposing the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Below's a detail of how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this action till the awning got on the ground but I observed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I went ahead and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, just pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded corner at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing bracket on the right. Removing the placing brace of the awning. Once the mounting braces are separated, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily simply like a normal item of aluminum roofing system side trim molding other than that at the bottom side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and afterwards simply tug it out.

You might have to cut completion with an utility blade if it is covered under. Then simply tug it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went pretty rapidly.

Once the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just moves straight off the canvas by sliding the whole rail away.

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Once the 2 set screws were removed I could move the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. To lift that, the edge molding need to be gotten rid of.

I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might turn that item of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I changed from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the same way, and curved it sideways just sufficient so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply standing out through the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same deal once again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down but glue at this moment) and after that I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scraped up a few of the broken bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to bring up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I might see the steel framework underneath. But then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the pieces together. I don't understand just how exactly they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly realized the roofing was losing strength and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off just prior to the first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much stifling but glue now) and afterwards I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Foothill Ranch Camper Trailer Repair Near Me. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Trailer Repair Near Me Foothill Ranch, CA

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scuffed up several of the busted little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to bring up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framework underneath. After that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the assemble. I do not know exactly how exactly they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly recognized the roofing was losing strength and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off right before the initial joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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