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Camper Awning Repair Foothill Ranch

Published Jun 06, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Repair Foothill Ranch, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Awning Repair Foothill Ranch. I'm thinking the repair service will entail replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing bigger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repair work, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we understood the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out because it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is fine. The back brace setting up is fine, however the front one is cracked at the base and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Also the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Camper Awning Repair Foothill Ranch).

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The RV is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps also get us via the summer season - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a fast and efficient solution. Any person? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Renovation Series!.?.!! I get on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. But in order to remove the fourth one, I require to get rid of the recreational vehicle awning too.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially before the final steps of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step till the awning was on the ground yet I saw this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing brace on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Here's a check out the round network at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the whole roof covering like me, then you wouldn't require to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's much like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply yank it out.

You may have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground little bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 established screws were eliminated I could slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once more I just tore up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might wind up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. The roofing outdoor decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change need to be raised. To lift that, the edge molding should be gotten rid of.

Then I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I changed from a scraper to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the exact same method, and bent it sideways simply enough so that I can raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end eliminating those edge trim items completely down besides. We'll get to that later on. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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It's just popping with the staples. The side of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side. Same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I began very carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole point started to draw up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the items with each other. I don't recognize exactly how specifically they managed to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly realized the roof covering was losing stamina and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down but glue at this moment) and afterwards I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Camper Awning Repair Foothill Ranch. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roofing system plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scratched up several of the busted bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to draw up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I might see the steel framework below. Then the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the items with each other. I do not understand how precisely they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roofing was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so split it off right before the first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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