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Camper Repair Shop Near Me Brea

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Shops Near Me Brea, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything wrong, however withdrawed both awning simply to be secure. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rain seamless gutter had been drawn away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the appropriate hand end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is glided right into has retreated from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Camper Repair Shop Near Me Brea. I'm assuming the repair will involve replacing that entire size of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, significant fixings, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we understood the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket setting up is fine, however the front one is split at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Does this sound sensible? Also the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey steel - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to see to it we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe also obtain us via the summer season - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd rather locate a fast and efficient service. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof covering outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground. I pulled these out. Pressing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially before the final actions of this message (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Below's a detail of how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step until the awning got on the ground but I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply pull back on the bracket. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the right. Removing the placing brace of the awning. Once the installing brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is essentially simply like a routine item of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. Below's a check out the round channel at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, then you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Simply yank it out!

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little collection screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just slides straight off the canvas by gliding the whole rail away.

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Once both established screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can eliminate the old roof covering decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition need to be lifted. To lift that, the corner molding must be removed.

I might turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might swing that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the same means, and curved it sideways just enough so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's just standing out with the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I've exposed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge. Very same offer once again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but adhesive now) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scratched up several of the damaged bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to pull up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framing under. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how exactly they took care of to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roof was losing toughness and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off simply before the very first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which means I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim items all the way down. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's just popping through the staples. The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Very same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive now) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Camper Repair Shop Near Me Brea. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts in all holding back the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scratched up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to pull up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I can see the steel framework under. Yet after that the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand how specifically they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roof was shedding stamina and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off just before the initial joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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